Saturday, January 29, 2011

TMX in Reagent III

It is very pleasing to see the kind of mid tone contrast we seem to be able to reliably get out of various emulsions, here TMX, in Reagent III.  Here is a greatly cropped (-10X) section of the negative shot at normal ISO by DF. The grain structure is clearly visible and probably familiar to users of TMX, present, but not too intrusive.

Some highlight blocking is definitely apparent in the V750 Epson scan at the "automatic" setting. Like a number of other slow to develop emulsions, TMX does appear to have that tendency to block up the highlights with this mix, Pan-F much less so, and Efke somewhere in between.  I think we can fine tune it later, just watch out, maybe by a half or whole stop, if you are experimenting as we are today with the published mix.

Nice twisty things on that plant.

1. 8 ml HC-110 USA concentrate
2. 25 ml household ammonia(soapy is OK)
3. 5 ml Ilford Rapid Fixer
4. Water to make 128 ml

If you can measure the pH with a test strip, confirm it is at least 8.5, and if not, add a little more ammonia. Use the Ilford fixer as that has ammonium thiosulfate.
HC-110 is like a thick syrup. Measure it out in a larger container, then dilute it with the ammonia which will dissolve the syrup.  Process TMX for 10 minutes at 75F. This works best when warm. Wash the negative in plain water for a few minutes if you can. The water should not be cold or hot. Then hang it up to dry. If you used soapy ammonia, you won't need any Photo-Flo, as the residual wetting of the soap is still present.

This could hardly be easier. Don't worry about the pH or the washing, Just mix it up and you're there. I would recommend you try this with Ilford Pan-F ISO 50 too, as the result is quite nice. See here.


Anonymous said...

Hi Bob,

Nice results, again! Having more experience now, what's your experience with reusing the chemicals for more rolls of film?

Bob Crowley said...

Three times is the maximum we have reused the RIII. The second use may require a little more time in some hypo clear, and the third appears to be less energetic. This is not too bad though.

Thank the photog DF for finding another illustrative and artistic subject.

cafe selavy said...

This is unbelievably exciting for me. If nothing else right now, it will allow me to do test shots for the rest of the 4x5 film that I process later. Yikes!

Anonymous said...

I would say, that in a sense, the project has done already, for this is easy to do, anyone can do it, what a beautiful result, better than I expected. I have done it easily, and will buy the scanner V750, if that is what you recommend? Margo

cafe selavy said...

Bob, how do I shoot flash with the Speed Graphic? Am I limited to chemical bulbs? That is what I think, but that won't work with what I am doing.

Bob Crowley said...

You can use chemical bulbs but if you must use electronic flash then you have to use the "O" setting. Crank the tension up, go to "O" and compose, then go to 1, fire the shutter to O, fire the flash, then fire the shutter once more to close it. Manual all the way! Or there are many shuttered lenses you can use instead of the Aero, if you don't really need the big aperture.

Anonymous said...

I could live with this. Is the sequence in mixing the monobath that that important or just convenient?

Anonymous said...

Amazon delivered the scanner to me so I will send the result to you. But how do I do that? Margo.

Bob Crowley said...

Margo - please go to the right hand column on this page and find "Spamless communication method" click on that, then go to the "contact page" and send me an email. I'll get back to you about sending files. I look forward to seeing them!

Bob Crowley said...

The sequence doesn't seem to matter. Apparently some water with lots of chlorine and minerals in it make the R3 less able to be used multiple times, as it produces silver metal sludge. If you are getting a lot of silver particles, save them! Wash them through a coffee filter and mix them with glue to make real silver sparkly glitter. But also try distilled water the next time. You can get that at the supermarket along with your ammonia.

cafe selavy said...

I just shot some 4x5 Ilford HP5 and developed it with the reagent. It worked! The neg is all flawed because I don't have a dark room and just used a changing bag to drop the film into a plastic 120 film developer tank and let it slosh around. But this is exciting. It was also the first negative I've shot with the Speed Graphic/Aero Ektar setup. Doubly exciting. Last night I tried using a strobe with the T setting on the Graphic on old Pola 55 film. And by gosh, that worked, too. I'll try some Kodak Ektar film and send it off to a lab today, and I'm going to order some Fuji 4x5 films this afternoon.

What a crazy way to shoot. But the cool thing is that people want to stand in front of that camera. Deep opportunities.

And thank you all for helping out.

Bob Crowley said...

"people want to stand in front of that camera"

Yup, people respond, the whole scene is somehow different with a big Aero Ektar eye. I love it! It's a new sense of wonder, discovery - we have everything yet still to do!

Let's see some R3 results soon! We need it to build the consensus for this accelerating project.

Anonymous said...

Greetings Bob , i have a question concerning the amount of household ammonia in the mixture

I can find 25%and 9.5% solutions of houshold ammonia

Or i could Mix a 5% solution at my pharmacy

Whats the best One to take or to start with?

Best wishes Luke

Bob Crowley said...

Try the 9.5 first. That should be plenty. Remember to keep the monobath warm! BTW where are you? I have never seen 25% for sale except for industrial use. I would avoid that concentration.

Anonymous said...

Thank you Bob, im situated in Germany , my pharmacist told me he could Mix 100ml of 5% amonia Solution , im asking because i have read something about a 5% Solution on the Blog

Bob Crowley said...

You could cut the 9.5 in half with some water if you find you cannot stand the smell. The idea is to have a very high pH, and 5% ammonia is enough, though I doubt a higher concentration will hurt the film.

On a side note, we have made R3 at times using distilled water that had virtually no fumes, was nearly clear, and lasted a very long time - months long. Other users have reported strong fumes - all from Europe. This could be a clue why that is since we only have 5% ammonia here in the US.

Another aside: The diazo process and other processes known to Land used ammonia to good effect, but he rejected it because it had a smell. Land also insisted on a dry print. Had he been less insistent we might not have had the products from Polaroid that we became accustomed to.

Anonymous said...

Thank you very much for clearing this up, i have 5% solution right now in front of me, to start tests ;-)

Two last questions i would like to ask you bob,

1. Whats the best way to develop 4x5 sheets with the monobath, tray? drum? tank?

i was thinking about a one tray development, a small tray filled with the solution and the sheets tossed in the soup.

2. is it possible to reheat/warm the solution several times for reuse ?

Thank you Bob and I have my fingers crossed for your 55, ready to order 100 Sheets when tey are out

best wishes!!!

Bob Crowley said...

Just a tray will work as long as you keep it warm. This is really the only important requirement. You don't even need to agitate it. I have used tray and tank, and both worked fine!

Please read the mixing instructions carefully - note the "water to make 128ml". That isn't 128 ml of water, but ENOUGH water to bring the total to 128.